Old-fashioned costume jewellery is a type of collectable that many find unique and emotionally meaningful. Unlike expensive jewellery, it is made with low-cost materials and fake gemstones. While usually more affordable, some exceptional and well-made items can be quite valuable, fetching high prices.
For nearly three centuries, costume jewellery has been part of fashion, with jewellers using cheap glass since the 1800s. Over time, costume jewellery designs have changed, often reflecting the popular styles of more luxurious jewellery.
Knowing each era’s distinct styles, items, and creators can enhance your appreciation of these vintage accessories and help you judge their worth and historical importance.
From 1920s: Vintage Costume Jewelry
Overview of 1920s Costume Jewelry:
- Common Items: Dangling earrings, various necklaces, slim bracelets, decorative pins
- Used Materials: Silver-colored metals, transparent and tinted glass gems and beads, imitation pearls, and shiny mineral stones
- Designers: Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli
The 1920s were a time of significant political and societal shifts, sparking a newfound interest in costume jewellery. This period saw a substantial increase in the country’s wealth and a stronger focus on consumer culture. These changes influenced women’s appearances and behaviours, shaping their style preferences.
In the 1920s, women opted for shorter hairstyles, which were ideal for showcasing prominent earrings. Popular accessories included long necklaces that accentuated the neck and swayed with movement during the dance and pearls.
Costume jewellery of the 1920s aimed to mimic fine jewellery, using silver-toned metals, vibrant stones, and imitation pearls. The Art Deco trend-shaped jewellery designs resulted in items with bold colour contrasts, geometric forms, artistic patterns, and sleek outlines.
By the decade’s end, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli had made costume jewelry fashionable by designing sought-after pieces, thus enhancing the appeal of these imitation accessories for many years ahead.
From 1930s: Vintage Costume Jewelry
In the 1930s, affordable jewellery became important because the Great Depression reduced people’s spending money. Women could not buy new outfits often and used jewellery to vary their looks. Jewellery creators experimented with new designs, leading to the popular dress clip of the era.
The double clip brooch originated in France as luxury jewelry and got patented in the US. Coro acquired the patent in 1933 and made their first Duettes in 1935, often worn on necklines or attached to hats, bags, and belts.
Cartier and other luxury jewellers made pieces with fruit and flower motifs then, inspiring brands like Coro, Trifari, and Boucher to produce similar designs with moulded glass resembling precious stones.
As the 1930s continued, the Art Deco design evolved into Art Moderne or Streamline Modern styles. Costume jewellery from this time is known for its playful and creative look, influenced by Surrealism and the use of vibrant, low-cost plastics.
From 1940s: Vintage Costume Jewelry
Common Items: The era saw a trend in wearing brooches, wide bracelets, ear clips, necklaces, and double-clip brooches.
Materials Used: Jewelers crafted these pieces using sterling silver, wood, leather, plastics like Bakelite and Lucite, natural shells, and plaster.
Renowned Creators: Notable designers included Trifari, Weiss, Eisenberg, Hobe, Coro, Juliana, and Ciner.
The onset of World War II markedly influenced fashion and jewellery, leading to more practical clothing and understated yet feminine jewellery.
Women of the era favoured broad, sculptural bracelets and sizable brooches on their clothes’ shoulders. The double-brooch clips also remained in vogue, transitioning from balanced geometric pairs to asymmetrical, sculpted designs.
A significant shift in costume jewellery was the substitution of sterling silver for other metals, a change necessitated by the war’s limitations. Additionally, due to scarcity, imitation gems like seed pearls, turquoise, coral, and jade became prevalent, alongside materials such as wood, leather, Bakelite, Lucite, and plaster.
Despite the wartime hardships, the costume jewellery market flourished, with soaring sales and a surge in design patents. The decade also saw an enhancement in the quality of jewellery, as many artisans diverted from fine jewellery to costume jewellery, and numerous skilled workers emigrated from Europe during the conflict.
From 1950s: Vintage Costume Jewelry
In the 1950s, women loved to have all their accessories match, and this trend included costume jewelry. Movies such as “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” inspired women to wear imitation jewellery resembling the expensive pieces seen on screen.
Common Jewelry: Women often wore jewellery sets that included earrings with clusters or pendants, necklaces that covered the neck area, and large pins or bracelets. Materials Used: These pieces were made with colourful beads, glass that looked like art, and metals with interesting textures. Famous Creators: Some well-known designers were Christian Dior, Weiss, Hobes, Juliana, and Ciner.
The most popular accessory was a plain string of pearls, which could make any outfit look more elegant. Other big and noticeable pieces were also in style.
During this era, jewelry with a gold appearance was more sought after than silver, as people wanted lavish-looking accessories. Fake pearls, beads with spots of color, and shiny stones were commonly used to make fancy-looking jewelry that was still affordable.
A key feature of 1950s jewellery was the bold use of colour. Designers like Elsa Schiaparelli were not scared to mix different bright colours and tones in one item. Meanwhile, other designers preferred white and soft colours similar to those from the 1930s.
From 1960s: Vintage Costume Jewelry
- Key Pieces: In the 1960s, women embraced large pendants, hoop earrings, ball drop earrings, and multi-strand necklaces as their go-to accessories.
- Materials: Costume jewelry designers got creative, using decorative beads, art glass, textured metals, and modern materials like plastics, vinyl, and Perspex.
- Influential Designers: Kenneth Jay Lane was a prominent designer during this era.
Cultural Context: The 1960s were marked by progress, a spirit of free-thinking, and the iconic “flower power” movement. These cultural shifts influenced jewellery trends, prompting costume jewellery creators to explore new techniques and cost-effective materials. Mass production and technological advancements made fashion more accessible to all.
Different Styles:
- Oversized Glam: Oversized accessories were all the rage.
- Global Vibes: Jewelry designs drew inspiration from around the world.
- Vibrant Colors: Bright hues ruled the day.
- Floral Delights: Plastic floral designs adorned many pieces.
- Bangle Mania: Colorful bangles were the ultimate fashion statement.
Artistic Influence: Pop art and Op art left their mark on costume jewelry. Bold colour combinations and visually striking pieces became the norm. Kenneth Jay Lane, a standout designer, crafted statement jewelry using popular plastic materials.
From 1970s: Vintage Costume Jewelry
- Common Items: Chunky chains, large pendants, wide bangles, and long earrings.
- Materials Used: Natural elements such as wood, stones, seashells, and animal bones.
- Noted Creators: Brands like Coro and Haskell were well-known.
In the 1970s, a variety of styles in costume jewellery gained popularity. Jewelry with geometric shapes and bohemian designs that reflected worldwide cultures were in vogue. The disco era’s influence brought about a trend for more glittery and flashy jewellery.
The era was marked by substantial chains and multi-layered necklaces, often featuring distinctive colors and forms. The color palette for jewelry included deep orange, dark green, brown, yellow, and off-white. Designers of the time focused on incorporating organic materials such as wood, stones, seashells, and bones into their creations.
FAQs
What is Costume Jewelry?
Costume jewelry, or fashion jewelry, is crafted from non-precious materials. It includes base metals like brass and copper, synthetic or imitation stones, plastic, glass, and other materials.
Why Choose Costume Jewelry?
The appeal of costume jewelry lies in its accessibility and versatility. It allows wearers to experiment with different looks without the hefty price tag associated with fine jewelry.
